That’s amaro
Our resident food historian on how, with a bit of love and care, you can lift up the throwaways of citrus fruit – pips, pith, peel and all – to their fresh and bitter best
Food & Drink
Spread Eagle, Homerton, food review: ‘There can be roast without the ruthlessness’
The pub’s pre-Tier 4 festive feast proves today’s vegans ‘really can have it all – apart from good imitation cheese, apparently’
Eat Hackney Vegan Cookbook, Helena Smith: ‘A smorgasbord of food ideas suitable for everyone’
Try your hand at recipes donated by chefs across the borough in support of local causes
Full of beans
Our resident food historian on all manner of beans, from ‘glorious mush’ to a variety for the dead, and a very talented woman who painted them
The Joys of Sludge
Our resident food historian on beauty in beige, and why ordinary folks in the Middle Ages had it right with their ‘dreary but delicious’ diet
Maison Patron, Blackstock Road, food review: ‘Dinky and delightful’
This French gem, which was open for just one week before lockdown forced it to close, is ‘ready to charm once more’
Nuno at The Scolt Head, De Beauvoir Town, food review: ‘Little pub with a big heart’
Celebrated chef Nuno Mendes teams up with publican Rosie Wesemann to create a ‘local oasis serving scrumptious food with friendly charm’
Carry on up the Cupola
Our resident food historian explores the compelling history of a special Tuscan stew, and dispels a fanciful myth about its origins
Nebula Pizza, Hackney Road, food review: ‘A little slice of heaven’
This brand new restaurant made out of shipping containers offers a ‘safe, fun, and jolly good night out’
Filthy Buns, Dalston, food review: ‘Joyous venue with staff and style to match’
This inventive burger joint at the Three Compasses pub will put a huge grin on your face
Some like it hot
Our resident food historian on chillies, and why it’s the flavour, not the heat, that is important
Padella, Shoreditch, food review: ‘Buzzing addition to East London – even if the food is slightly underwhelming’
This haven for pasta fans, recovering from a pre-Covid launch, offers ‘la dolce vita without needing pockets as deep as Donatella Versace’
Exploding grannies and sleepy pears
Our resident food historian on Italian legends and the joys of pears with cheese
Flat Earth Pizza at The Plough, Homerton, food review: ‘Inventive grub that doesn’t hurt the planet’
Our reviewer emerges from lockdown for a ‘guilt-free evening of astounding food’ at this vegan pizzeria-in-a-pub
All the fun of the furlough
Our resident food historian takes us through the intrepid legionary’s enforced break, during which he keeps himself busy with sidelines in saffron and fish sauce
Susanna’s Manners
Our resident food historian on 17th-century childcare, from high chairs ‘built like battleships’ to ‘fearsome’ baby walkers